Step #1, make room for the rotated box. This took just a little trimming. And then a little boxing.
The old t-case shifter hole was closed off. And then a test fit. Test fit as in the drive shaft was only shortened 4" instead of 6".
Well it's going in, slowly, but it's going in. To begin with the coupler for the Marlin adapter is a bit more than a "snug" fit. I would say it's closer to a press fit than a snug fit. I warmed it up to about 200° in the oven and used the brass hammer to drive it on. Swinging a hammer at an automatic transmission scares the hell out of me.
So there I was, minding my own business. Suddenly the CV end of the front drive shaft grabs my finger and mashes the %^#&$&^%$ out of it. The drill was witnessed nearby smirking. OK, I was drilling out the bolt holes in the flange and the drill grabbed spinning the drive shaft, should have had it in a vise....... the one that was 2ft behind me. [headshake]
The shifters are one of the bigger pains and will need some fine tuning when my finger doesn't hurt like hell. The drive shaft I built has a CV style joint on the t-case end, but it also hits the cross member. The cross member has been in the way every bit of the way, I think it's time to dream up something else.
Well, decided to modify the current cross member thinking it would save me time. At 3:30am the drive shaft finally went in and I went to Lewis Co., KY at 8:30am. Didn't really run into much to crawl on in low low range but it was great to get out and wheel. I had a long week and was waaayyy too tired, called it a day early and hit the road. Shifting the D300 is a little tricky with an auto making me wish I could control it with my left hand. Cables! I've cleaned up the floor work so there's no nasty jagged edges. The new speed sensor setup is not cooperating, I'll have to get with tech support for that, I'm lost.
I've been in digital speedometer hell. Dakota digital got me straight on the settings but when I put things away and button the dash up it quits. Going without a speedometer wouldn't bother me but other devices need the speed signal.
I grabbed the old sensor out of the Taco t-case and compared output signal patterns. The universal sender puts out a sine wave and the signal calibrator converted it to a 50% duty cycle square wave. The Taco sender had about a 30% duty cycle square wave and the duty cycle stayed 30% after the calibrator. My theory is the 50% duty cycle was a borderline reject signal, added signal noise form tucking the calibrator under the dash finished it off. With a little machining the Taco sender now fits on the cable. I now have my speedometer, odometer, cruise control, and a content engine/transmission computer.
Here's the Taco sensor with the snout threaded, gear cut off, shaft end drilled for cable, and the shaft was drilled and tapped for a setscrew to lock the cable.
And some shots of the finished product:
Well, after loosing my father to cancer, having my own bout with Hodgkin's disease, and suffering a heart attack, I'm finally back in action. While doing some maintenance I found ATF was leaking into the crawler box and diluting the gear oil. I've contacted a few places to see if I can get a better option for a seal the separates the two. The one that was supplied has hardened on the gear oil side. ATF was also traveling through the coupler so that will get resealed too.
Replacement seal 3459-S Timken
I'm also taking this opportunity to change over to a cable shifter setup.
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